designing a sweater II
calculating the back panel of a sweater that's designed to fit my measurements (on sketch diagram stitches are circled, inches are not)
Notes to self:
Test gauge in multiple places: this Malabrigo swatch ranged from 4 to 3.75 inches across 20 stitches.
20 / 3.75 = 5.33 or 20 / 4 = 5 average the stitch change 5.33 + 5 = 10.33 / 2 = 5.165
Gauge = 5.165
Row Gauge = 7.5 rows per 1"
(measured 15 rows over 2") round down from 7.5 to 7
Bust = gauge 5.165 x 19 (half 36" plus 2" ease) = 98.135 (round down) 98 sts plus 2sts (selvedge, add 1 knit stitch on all edges for seaming) = 100 sts
[ I ] Bust = 100 sts
Waist = gauge 5.165 x 16 (half 31" =15.5 round down + 1" ease) = 82.64 round up and get to an even number = 84 sts plus 2 sts selvedge = 86
[ K ] Waist = 86 sts
To figure out the needed decreases calculate the difference between the bust 100 - waist 86 = 14 sts / half = 7 times, must decrease in pairs (2) = 14 sts. * need to calculate where to put decreases across 5" bottom to waist & 10" waist to bottom of armhole. Options: every 2 rows or every 4 on the right side of fabric. Or create a flat waist area and push decreases closer together away from true center?
[ D ] Back/Chest = 80 sts across back from beginning of armhole
5.165 x 15 [D] = 77.47 (round up) 78 + 2 = 80 sts
bind off over 2 rows (since you can only bind off at the beginning of a row) 5 sts on each side, decrease the extra 10 sts immediately over every other row on the right side (public) of the fabric
[ G ] minus 1" = 8"
knit for 8" then start decrease bind offs for sloping shoulder quickly over the last 1" (7 rows) 25 sts divided by 7 rows = 3.5
[ E] neck opening = 30 sts
[ F ] shoulders = 25 sts
[ E ] neck opening = 6" x 5.165 = 30 sts, subtract 30 sts from 80 = 50 divide in half = 25 sts
to check for correct calculation, divide 25 sts by gauge 5.165 = 4.84 round down [ F] = 4.5 a match!
bind off center neck 1" from end/shoulder (56 rows) in 2 stages/steps, bind off 14 sts in the center, then 8 each of the next rows (add new/2nd skein of yarn on one side)
test gauge for hem: folded over stockinet, use thread tack down fabric - thinking 1"? Undecided and too tired to continue.
