I started the day by learning the Seoul subway system. It's a color coded system, numbered, as well as labeled in Korean, English and Mandarin. There are 8 lines, each with a unique color and every stop has an associated number. Not every stop's number is marked, however, at each stop there is an arrow pointing you toward the next stop in each direction on that line. Of course you have to be strategic about making sure you get to a transfer point station so you can change lines and also make sure you are on the correct level. There are three levels within the subway system. Fortunately there is english on each station marker - or I'd be screwed and very very lost. The subway map in no way reflects real distances and that messed me up a bit too. It turns out that all stops within the downtown area are 900 won one way, and everywhere I wanted to go was within the downtown area. There are plenty of machines to buy tickets, though you'd have to know to only get a 900 won ticket since the machines are written entirely in Korean so you can't figure it out without seeking help. Fortunately they have some tourist information booths at certain stations. I only went the wrong way once, lucky me.

First stop was Itaewon. This neighborhood was billed as "champagne shopping on a beer budget." Hardly! This street had shop after shop of endless yucky low end knock off crap and was a serious waste of time. Don't go! The coolest thing I saw on the street was this window displaying ginseng in jars and the cutest police station mascots ever — so not authoritarian!

Next I went to Dongdaemun. This is a shopping megaplex area. Every building - in every direction - is a shopping complex/mall. What a nightmare! The weather here is very hot, super humid, grey heavy, and sticky. It feels better to be in the air conditioning even if it's in a frighteningly intense and crowded mall so inside I went. At this point I was really hungry so I headed to the 9th floor food court in the Doosan Tower. Yikes! After cruising around the court I learned that you order from the center cashier station. They issue you a number and ticket and you wait until your number is displayed on the big digital overhead board. Then you head to the numbered section you ordered from and give them your ticket. I ordered a number 7 from section D — that translates to fried rice and noodles with wild mushrooms and beef. When you are done eating you return the tray to the same section area. After eating, I explored about seven floors of endless designer knock off shopping Blech. I tried to find stuff but most was too weird and just off enough to be all wrong. The few things I found for gifts were too small or bad craftsmanship. We all know I am picky, but I was shocked to be surrounded by so much and not like anything at all. Sadly, this was a fruitless day. My next free day will be spent visiting a museum or palace as I can't take anymore shopping.

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